CINCINNATI — This story starts in New Orleans. Because it's where Jeff Harris was born, and it’s where his great-grandmother taught him to cook.
It’s also where his story changed forever. Because after Hurricane Katrina destroyed his home and most of his city, Harris left the Ninth Ward on a Greyhound bus.
At the time, he’d barely heard of Cincinnati.
Now, he’s one of the city’s most acclaimed chefs. But he wants to make something clear: If you come to Nolia Kitchen, don’t expect red beans and rice.
“I’m from New Orleans, but my restaurant is not,” Harris said. “There’s more to me than that.”
It's why his wife tells me she wasn't sure if the restaurant would work.
“He’s always surprised me,” said Heather Harris, co-owner of Nolia Kitchen. “The weirdest things on the menu is what sells the most.”
This means goat gnocchi with sweet potatoes. And suya, a beef dish from Africa.
'I'm on a mission' | Meet the Black chef who wants to redefine what that means
I spent some time with Harris before one of their busiest nights of the year — the Friday before Valentine’s Day. When I get there, the staff's talking through assignments. There's tension.
“Everyone’s going to be put to the test tonight,” said Thearvy Long, the head chef. “It’s going to be fun.”
Long shows me around and tells me it's going to be his busiest night since joining the staff last year. He keeps smiling.
“What we have here is a stage,” Long said.
A stage where Harris hopes to redefine what it means to be a Black chef from New Orleans. Because yes, his story includes southern food. But not like you might expect.
“I’m on a mission,” Harris said. "We're putting culture on a plate."
Under a tablet where the orders come in, there’s a piece of tape. Written on it is this: Let’s show them why we are #1. In 2023, the restaurant was a finalist for a James Beard Award, considered one of the most prestigious awards in the food industry. And Harris tells me he wants to be the best chef in Cincinnati.
Multiple times.
But even with those lofty goals, Harris says he wants Nolia to feel like your grandmother’s house. That’s why he started cooking.
And it’s part of the reason his own grandson is here.
Harris slides an apron over his head. It's embroidered with the words, "Chef Des." The two stand over a grill, cooking broccoli and suya. After plating one of the skewers, Des's hand has a black mark on it.
“You didn’t burn yourself,” Harris said. “Just to let you know.”
The young boy responds — using the same phrase to tell him he knew that.
"Just so you know," Des said.
Harris laughs before turning to me.
“How’s the chaos look now?” Harris said.
He laughs again.
“This is what Friday nights are all about."
