LoveBeer, LoveFood: Pucker up! An intro to ‘sour' beer styles

CINCINNATI -- Whether you're toasting the night to friends, drowning your single sorrows, or enjoying a romantic dinner with your loved one, pop open a deliciously tart brew or two this Valentine's Day.

For a long time, I didn't really like so called "sour" beers - the tartness was just too much. My husband, always the early adopter, loved them. I'd usually take a sip of his, just to try it, and after a couple years of sampling, my  palate has changed. I distinctly remember my first tart true love, Oro de Calabaza  from Jolly Pumpkin. It beguiled me with it's complex fruitiness and funk.

Sour beers, also labeled "wild," are made by intentionally inoculating the wort (sugary liquid that turns into beer) with wild yeast strains. These beers can be anywhere from slightly tart to massively sour.

Any beer can be made "sour" and there are various ways to accomplish the task. One way, often utilized by Belgian brewers is to "open ferment" in coolships, or large shallow vessels used to cool the wort with nothing but open night air. This technique allows wild organisms (bacteria and yeast) to settle on the wort and feast on the sugars. Other brewers will choose ahead of time what types of wild yeast they want to add to their beers and will simply add a culture of that bacteria or yeast to the fermentation vessel. Barrel aging can also add a sour characteristic to beer, as wood is the perfect breeding ground for wild organisms.

Different beer styles have varying degrees of tartness, and those that don't fit within traditional style guidelines, are a mix bag. According to the Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) guidelines  there are six recognized styles of sour beer: Berliner Weisse, Flander's Red, Flander's Brown (or Oud Bruin), Lambic, and Geuze (also spelled Gueuze), plus "Fruit Lambic". Farmhouse saisons, depending on the yeast(s) used to ferment, may also offer a low to moderate tartness, but isn't considered one of the classic "sour" styles.

Berliner Weisse' heritage lies in Berlin, Germany as you might guess. Classically, it is a pale in color, low ABV beer made mostly of wheat that is tart and refreshing. It's brewed with traditional ale yeast and lactobacillus, one of our "wild" friends responsible for the pucker. Very few German breweries produce the classic style anymore, but some American craft breweries have adopted it with their own interpretations, such as Dogfish Head 's Festina Peche , and Three Floyd's Deesko.  On a sour scale of 0 (not sour) to 10 (the most sour thing ever consumed) I'd rank Berliner Weisse a 2-3.

sour beer

Flander's Red Ale is a very complex, oak aged beer, historically produced in West Flanders. It is typically a deep red or reddish brown color with flavors and aromas of dried fruits, cherries, and a pleasant sweet-tart balance. ABV is usually in the 5-7% range. The so called "Burgundy of Belgium," this beer is the most wine-like of all beers. It would be a good introductory beer for the wine lover in your life. Rodenbach  is perhaps the most notable producer, but other excellent versions exist. One of my favorites is the Duchesse de Bourgogne  by Brouwerij Verhaeghe. In terms of tartness, I'd rank Flander's Red as a 4 - 6 on the tartness scale.

Flander's Brown Ale, or Oud Bruin (indigenous to East Flanders) differs from Flander's Red in that it is typically less sour, less fruit forward and not usually oak aged. The malt flavor comes through more in these more mellow beers. Flander's Browns have a wider range of ABV's and are usually darker in color than Flander's Red. Flander's Brown ales offer a more elegant and refined sour flavor perfect for the adventurous craft beer lover who wants to start off with a more demure sour flavor, a 3-4 on the sour scale.

sour beer

Lambic is a wild, spontaneously fermented beer made only in the Senne Valley of Brussels, out of unmalted wheat, Pilsner malt and aged hops (the aged hops offer no flavor but are used for their preservative powers). They are golden in color and extremely complex. Lambics are typically uncarbonated, single year versions, where Geuze, is a blend of three different years of Lambic that is highly carbonated. They are both refreshingly tart with aromas of hay, horseblanket, and flavors of tart pear. Oud Geuze Tilquin  is an excellent version of a traditional geuze - very complex and tart but with a balanced flavor, light body, and clean after taste. Lambic and geuze can offer substantial sour flavors, usually a 5-7 on the sour scale.

Fruited Lambics may be sweet and not very sour at all. The most common versions are Kriek,  or cherry lambic, and framboise, or raspberry lambic. Lindeman's Framboise,  is a popular example (though not truly a traditional "sour" Lambic - it pairs excellently with chocolate desserts).

American Craft Breweries have started to create their own versions of sour styles which are typically referred to as "wild ales," or even labeled using names of the organisms they use. They range in their level of sourness from just

barely tart from a touch of Brettanomyces to bracingly sour, just loaded with wild microrganisms like pediococcus and lactobacillus.

Locally in Cincinnati, the Quaff Bros  and Rivertown  lead the pack in terms of sour and barrel aged beers, though Fifty West  has made some sours and now MadTree  is testing the sour waters.

All of this is fantastic news - a well done sour beer is absolutely delicious. It can take years for the flavors to come together the way the brewers want, and can even require blending of different beers/years. A labor of love indeed.

For more recipes, local craft beers news and musings about fine foods; go to: http://lovebeerlovefood.com/

For the latest on craft beer and more in the Queen City, go to: wcpo.com/beer


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